All Questions, Answers, and Comments in Agriculture.com Community

Challenger MT465B cab fan access?

COrnguy — Thu, 20 Apr 2017 11:13:09 GMT

Looks like I might have to take all the headliner down or is there a better way? I haven't looked yet to see if there is access from above. Thanks in advance for your help and expertise.

The dealership had a healthy supply of the switch, so must be a weak spot.

Why do some of the older carburetors tend to be hard to start when hot?

jjcraftlady210 — Sun, 26 Mar 2017 15:47:05 GMT

carburaetors hard to start

jjcraftlady210 — Sun, 12 Mar 2017 23:25:28 GMT

Why do some of the older carbue\ators tend to be hard to start when hot?

Re: PTO SHAFT

Jessie_Scott_SF — Mon, 06 Mar 2017 21:38:03 GMT

Here's Ray's response:

PTO shaft length query

Most factory-built PTO shafts are telescopic (they slide in themselves) so that they can fit a number of applications and uses. If you are going to make up a dedicated shaft for a piece of equipment I suggest to following:

The goal is to keep the shaft and it's universal joints as straight as possible to limit vibration and eccentric motion. Most universal joints do not like to run at any angle more than 3 to 4 degrees from center. A PTO, since it spins only 540 rpm, is much more forgiving than a driveshaft on a car or truck. But the goal is to always keep it as straight as possible while in the use position. If a CV joint (constant velocity joint) is employed instead of a universal joint, then the angle is much more forgiving between the PTO and the driven implement. It can then become quite aggressive with a steep angle.

Another concern is the movement of the equipment and the tractor. The shaft needs enough length to slide in- and -out as the square tubes nests inside each other. Thus you must anticipate the actual amount of movement that may occur and then add about six more inches for enough depth to handle the torque load.

If the shaft is going to operate a stationary object such as an auger or irrigation pump, then three or so inches of freeplay (nesting) will suffice to make it easy to connect and disconnect.

If I can be of any more help please contact me at: sfengineman@agriculture.com

PTO SHAFT

glocke14 — Wed, 01 Feb 2017 00:42:08 GMT

Ray, what is the correct way to determine the proper length of a PTO shaft for a piece of equipment?

Re: 1953 JD 40T - hard starting

ECIN — Thu, 26 Jan 2017 13:30:57 GMT

Well I'm not the Shell answer man here - but your problem sounds like the one we had with our IH 400 - great old tractor - but it was a 6 volt system - if it did not start are the 3rd UUURRRRR - then she was done - I changed everything , then one day talking to a well seasoned mechanic - he said the 400's were a high compression motor - 6.3 to 1 If I remember right and it just didn't have enough volts to spin it - the only fix was to put a 12 volt system on it - and that is major - new starter , battery + what ever , So I took a few minutes and pulled up the spec.s on a 40T Motor - it has a 6.5 to 1 compression - and your Super C is only a 6.0 to 1 - That may be why your battery spins it OK - This only a guess of mine - Good luck

1953 JD 40T - hard starting

traccarpartsya — Mon, 23 Jan 2017 21:42:06 GMT

Hello SF Man,
My '53 JD 40T is draining the battery every time after 1st initial crank on fully charged battery. Now this same battery easily cranks over my dads Farmall Super C; which is similar sized tractor. I can pull start it and it will crank up & run very smooth. It has new switch, points, rotor, cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, coil, starter-battery wire, ground-battery wire, and all new wiring. Verified that points & spark plugs are gapped correctly, plugs throw spark in/outside of engine when it turns over. We are just baffled at this point and not sure how find/fix this issue. Our only next was to run two 6 volt batteries n parallel to achieve more CCA. Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated as this a father & son project.

case ih 5230 powershift problem. Tractor moves in 2nd and 4th powershift but not in 1st and 3rd

tazman20033000 — Fri, 06 Jan 2017 02:23:23 GMT

CASE IH 5230 POWERSHIFT PROBLEM. CAN ONLY USE 2ND AND 4TH POWERSHIFT SELECTION IN ALL GEAR RANGES. WHEN POWERSHIFTED IN 1ST AND 3RD GEAR POWERSHIFT POSITION IT WILL NOT MOVE AND IT WILL PULL ENGINE RPMS DOWN ABOUT 300 RPMS.

1640 Case combine overheating

gerrypatte8953841 — Sat, 23 Jul 2016 00:57:06 GMT

I'm having a problem with my 1640 combine overheating. Problem began when I blew a hose to the after-cooler during wheat harvest. After replacing it, the engine would overheat in about 5 minutes running at threshing speed. A friend suggested that I look for an air lock in the cooling system. Bled the line to remove any trapped air but it didn't completely resolve the issue. Now the engine will run at normal temperature at idle and up to 2/3rds full throttle. Once I increase rpms to full throttle the needle heads for red after about 10 minutes. Belts are all tight, primary air filter replaced, oil and coolant are both up to level. Thinking about replacing thermostat next to see if that helps. Any other suggestions?

Re: When To Change Oil Seasonally

RHiebert — Fri, 01 Jan 2016 22:26:53 GMT

Synthetic lubes along with oil analysis when the oil sump is greater than 16 qrts. is the most cost effective way to approach oil change intervals. Petroeum based oils are not able to protect multimillion dollar equipment ie. combines and tractors like quality synthetics. Even if the applications are not multimillion dollar assets it still lmakes sense to use the most cost effective product options tht reduce operation and maintenance expenses and down time.

A big test for the best approach to what to do in a ie. combine or large tractor is applying a fogging product along with synthetics in every possible application, even hydraulics and transmissions. The attempt to refuse to use synthetics instead of petroleum based prodiicts due to the initial cost will not hold water because of obvious long term benefits.

Re: When To Change Oil Seasonally

bikinkawboy — Thu, 17 Dec 2015 21:50:18 GMT

I prefer to change before parking them. I've overhauled lots of engines and for those that set around a lot for long periods, you'd be amazed at how much crud accumulates at the bottom of the oil pan, on top of the heads, lifter valley on V8s and so on. Changing oil right after running them long enough thoroughly get everything heated up will at least get rid of the crud that's in supension. I'm sure you know that the word "crud" is a scientific name for that stuff that makes oil black don't you?

When To Change Oil Seasonally

Jim Meade / Iowa City — Mon, 07 Dec 2015 05:27:29 GMT

Many engines don't get enough hours to change oil more than annually or as called for in the operating manual. In this case, as a pilot, I've been trained to change the oil before a lay-off so the engine sits with clean oil in it. I know some farmers let it set with dirty oil and change it just before starting to use it again. Do you have any recommendations on which might be preferable?

Where can I get a USA model micromax CDA spray head

laurip95619 — Wed, 31 Dec 2014 07:56:37 GMT

What is the best way to check for and resolve an algae contamination within a diesel tractor?

Shaggy98 — Thu, 04 Dec 2014 19:26:17 GMT

This tractor has had minimal use the past 3 years (probably less than 30 hours). I've been using it for general loader work the past few days and am on my 3rd set of fuel filters in 20 hours. Tractor is a Case 2090 and currently has 3/4 tank of fuel according to the gauge.

Re: Dear Sir, Thanks for contacting SF and the Engine Answe...

ECIN — Mon, 20 Oct 2014 16:08:35 GMT

Thanks Ray !!!!!!!!!!

Ken

Dear Sir, Thanks for contacting SF and the Engine Answe...

EngineAnswerman — Tue, 07 Oct 2014 18:48:15 GMT

Dear Sir,

Thanks for contacting SF and the Engine Answerman for your question about DEF and your combine.

SF did publish a two part series on DEF that I authored in the ??? issue. I believe that you can find it also on the website for Agriculture.com. You need to go to Machinery Insider and then click on SFEngineman. It should pop up. It will provide a good overview of what you need to know about DEF.

I will now address your question so that you can move forward with your harvest.

When stored properly DEF in theory has a shelf life of approximately one year when seeing a temperature range of between 10 degrees F and 90 degrees F. If it never goes above 75 degrees F then it has a life of two years.

Contrary to what the dealer and supplier said all API Certified DEF has a date code on it when made. This will be somwhere on the label or bottle. It is important, especially with a combine, to purchase the freshest DEF possible since the machine is only used once a year.

When the DEF gets old it degrades and becomes less effective. If the 41 gallon tank is full then you have about $120.00 worth of product. In theory, it should not hurt anything but if the engine has a system that monitors quality of the DEF it can cause a problem during harvest. I believe that you are wise by putting in fresh product. No one likes to waste $120.00 but it is much cheaper than a repair or lost time in the field.

If you need to speak to me in person please e-mail me at SFEngineman@agriculture.com with your phone number and I will be happy to call you and answer any questions you may have.

Thanks for reading SF. I wish you a safe and bountiful harvest.

Ray T. Bohacz

Successful Farming magazine

I hope you are talking about DEF. In the semis they use...

rawhide — Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:09:22 GMT

I hope you are talking about DEF. In the semis they use it pretty quick-the boss buys it in 275 gal totes so i don't know about shelf life. All it is is a super clean 32% nitrogen solution so I guess you could dump it in the applicator But 32%as you know will freeze so keep it in a warm shed. The trucks have tank heaters on them so I assume your combine does too so that means a battery tender would be a must-have unless you run it every few days

Hey Engine Man -

ECIN — Fri, 19 Sep 2014 11:06:06 GMT

I brought a 2012 - IH - 6130 combine last winter - It was not used in the harvest of 2013 - This combine runs DEP in it . I have heard there is a shelf life on DEP , But when I ask the dealer , fuel supplier - nobody can give me a answer on , just how long DEP is good for , It has a 41 gallon tank on it and as I get ready for this years harvest - I'm going to dump whats in the tank and put new in , btw I have changed all the filter on the DEP system .

So what is the the deal with DEP ? How long is the shelf life and what about winter time storage ? Anything else I need to know ?

One other thing - when the dealer told me there was shelf life , I asked them how old there NEW stuff was - which I got a blank look - lol

Thanks

Ken

Dear Sir, Thank you for contacting SF in regard to what...

EngineAnswerman — Tue, 09 Sep 2014 20:25:56 GMT

Dear Sir,

Thank you for contacting SF in regard to what you heard some Montana growers are doing with canola fuel.

I personally have not heard about the Montana example you quote but I have heard of others.

I did write a one page article for SF about biodiesel which I am a big fan of. It ran a few issues back.

It is a great fuel when it is made properly. The only thing wrong with biodiesel is that it is too easy to make "bad" fuel and end up hurting an engine or the fuel system. Thus, it is my opinion that other than a hobby engine, I would only use a refinery produced certified biodiesel in any application that I use for the business of farming. Often times it is more of an engineering exercise or bragging rights to say that you made your own fuel. But when things go wrong with a home brew they usually go real wrong and cost a good deal of money to repair or have you forfeit the time in the field that is so critical to a successful crop or harvest.

Thanks so much for contacting me and if you would like to discuss this or any other engine topic please do not hesitate to contact me at: SFEngineman@agriculture.com.

Have a blessed day,

Ray T. Bohacz Successful Farming Magazine

Can canola oil be substituted for diesel

Jameshh1964 — Mon, 08 Sep 2014 05:21:25 GMT

Good evening.
I've been hearing alot lately about some Montana growers producing their own canola oil for use in their tractors. Apparently they have invented an engine accessory that switches fuel from diesel to canola oil when the engine temperature is high enough. Is this legitimate?