I 'm in the process of buying a 90 acre parcel in SW Mich. Its been in pasture for 30 years and I'm going to drill soybeans this spring. The ground is slightly rolling,no tile, and clay loam. I prefer no till, but have the tillage tools, except plow, to smooth out about 100 pot holes where there were some small scrub trees. Should I spray as soon as Temp. hits 50 degrees? Should I use a residual with glypho? How much glypho. The pasture has been maintained with brush hog on regular basis. I plan on using my JD750 drill and go with 15" spacing. I doubt if I can drill until about June 1. Been farming about 15 years and don"t know all the answers. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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If that were mine, I would never spray the first quart of glyphosate on it. I would burn it down at greenup with paraquat and metribuzin, notill non GMO beans in it. I would spray a full residual pre-emerge of Sonic or an Authority product and come back in 30 days and clean it up.
I would also get a ton or two of high calcium lime on it and a half to a ton of gypsum on it between now and planting, plus whatever it needs for fertilizer and I would be surprised if it doesn't need boron and perhaps a bunch of other nutrients.
This is what I have learned in 50 years of farming so take it for what its worth.
maybe use higher rates of glyphosate. Like 1.85L/acre of 540 g glyphosate for those perrennials that are tough to control. But if you can't identify any perrennials that need 1.85, then 1.33 works fine.
You may get better glyphosate actvity with eragon, or sharpen, as Americans know it. Its been called the fleabane killer for no till.
You may even one pass all weed control with guardian or guardian plus (dunno what it is called where you live.. its glyph, classic, and valtera). Then spray emerged perennials w/ roundup @ 1.85/1.35.. I have liberated many hayfields/pastures and there are tonnes of stupid retarded perennials to masscare. be it thistles, milkweed, dandelion, vetch. whatever... its not as nice as tame land.. and chem costs are definitely higher... I really like residual, and you HAVE to arrive on time (though you already do). I.e., this means show up for 1st trifoliate (i.e. the start of the critical weed free period). Cant show up late to any field be it pasture or tame and wait for weeds to emerge.. sorry. make a pass at 1st trifoliate and a second one later if need be if your ALL postemerge.
bumpy fields are going to be hard to harvest/plant.. plant higher pops and use cruiser for wireworms. I would rather just plow the **bleep** thing. for your sake, go with 7.5" rows!! You are killing yourself planting soybeans late w/ 15" rows. Your plants are going to be shorter than normal in 15" rows. 7s will be tall and easier to combine. Plus, June plantings heavily favor 7 inch rows in terms of yield potential. 7.5 rows will forgive crappy stand establishment more readily than 15s w/ a drill.
I would spray with 1.5 qt gly as soon as it warms up (assuming no weed problems). If there are weeds that ru is weak on probably add a pt of 2-4D. 750 drill should work ok as long as the ground doesn't get too dry, closing the slot may be your worst problem. Post spray will probably be able to get by with just gly. Patrick
seems obvious to me shaggy, its 100% a drainage problem... hes slightly less north than me, but I am sure thats what it is. if you dont tile clay loam where I am, you aint planting it til June.
I just picked up 100 acres lately w/ similar problems for little.. was cow pasture too.. maps say its very productive soil type. so tile is going in the ground eventually.
ya you can. Its better to plow it and let it fallow if your under the pressure of rainfall, like 2011.
seems the sod breaks down easier if you fall plow it. Still gotta run it over a million times if you spring plow, but less times than if you used less aggressive tillage. Takes a few days for the tile to make wetlands dry enough for tillage I find; usually you remove 0.5" of water/day.
Have had success busting sod every year except 2012. You just dry stuff out so badly, especially if you don't plow, but this rainy area seems to have coped fine w/ breaking sod each year. I remember in '10 planting soybeans on sod, on May 24 at the end of soybean planting and harvesting 52bpa, even with some poorly timed weed control on 10-20% of it (hey, it rained everyday where I was!). 2012 sod soybeans were like 20 bpa, a disaster, but $16/bushel anyways; soy after corn/wheat/plow was like 45 for my area... Soooo, whatever the weather is goin to give you is what you get with this diesel/risk/time intensive process.
You can always plant non gmo soys on sod and gmo soys on regular cropland.. then collect insurance on crappy sod acres if your that way (because there is separate insurance for both, for me at least).. lol!!
Alot of very good idea's here , 89 has some good point's on fall vs. spring , spring time till is a B-t-c-h ! I have never had good luck doing it and geting a good seed bed ,and it seems to dry out very quick in the summer .
Is the field smooth enough to just no till it ??? if so i think I would try that . As far as chemicals , You might want to loook at Extreme herbicide , it has pursuit in it and is a great residual product for grasses , but you will need to check the label for carry over to the next crop - and this all depends on when you spray it to . For the broad leafs,good point on useing the 2-4-D - BUT if you are going to spray very early , you can jump that up to a quart , BUT you will have to wait 30 days till you plant .
If you have a good fert. plant manager that you trust , would probably be a good idea to talk to him on what you should use in your area .
One last thing , if you can pull the plugs on your drill and go to 7.5's that would help in your weed controll
Thanks everyone. I'm on vacation so can't process info thoroughly,but will get back to you. I especially like the 7.5" row . I agree with that. I follow you guys everyday and your input is very rewarding to me.