If that were mine, I would never spray the first quart of glyphosate on it. I would burn it down at greenup with paraquat and metribuzin, notill non GMO beans in it. I would spray a full residual pre-emerge of Sonic or an Authority product and come back in 30 days and clean it up.
I would also get a ton or two of high calcium lime on it and a half to a ton of gypsum on it between now and planting, plus whatever it needs for fertilizer and I would be surprised if it doesn't need boron and perhaps a bunch of other nutrients.
This is what I have learned in 50 years of farming so take it for what its worth.
I gotta be straight up and say that applying lime/gypsum w.o a soil test indicating the need is 100% loss on investment. I doubt you need lime. Boron is completely unncessary in soybeans, and the amount needed is probably not even close toa pound.
Dont surface apply fertilizer.. it wont do anything, and at most it will move 1/8th of an inch.. which is not enough.
soybeans only need p/k and mn if deficient. Everything else generally ends up being a waste of time.. and only Mn can be successfully applied to soybeans. no defieciency= no yield boost to the application. dont get ag phded into applying it just for the hell of it.
89; The 1st thing I will do when I get back from winter vacation is take a soil test. I know broadcasting NPK for soys is not cost effective, but I did it the first time last year and the soys looked much better than without fertilizer and the yield was 46 bu/A in a bad drought area. I appreciate your input and will keep everyone posted on the progress.
I don't think my writing was as clear as it should have been, and I just wish to clarify something I have said, as it may have been misunderstood:
broadcasting fertilizer on no till land will not do anything, as there is no mechanism for the fertilizer to move into the rooting zone that anyone knows about at this time. Only N is able to move, as it is mobile throughout the soil profile with the addition of water.
tillage is generally the mechanism for the redistribution and uniformity of P/K fertilizer applications, due to the obvious mixing of the soil.
Sorry for any misunderstanding here.
I believe you're wrong about broadcast fertilizer in no-till. It amy not move down as fast as tillage incorperatedbut it does move down slowly. It's not as if it just magically disappears. I have been broadcasting P&K in no-till for several years along with soil testing. If I had not applied any P&K i would not be raising a crop by now. Patrick
Until I get a strip-till rig bought, I will continue to broadcast.
SWMI, if I were in your shoes I would hit the pasture with a strong dose of roundup when the weather warms up and follow that up with tillage after the weeds have been killed. You don't want all those potholes in the field especially when raising soybeans so that's why I would do tillage after the burndown. Normally I am all about residual herbicides in beans but you shouldn't have to worry about resistant weeds on that ground this year so I would buy roundup ready beans and plan on hitting the weeds again with roundup mid-summer. The most important thing to remember in your situation is to use a good inoculant... Where in SW Michigan are you farming? I farm in southern Branch county.
Blacksand, I farm in central Van Bluren Cty. 25 miles west of Kalamazoo. I will level the pot holes but I no till if the conditions are right Originaly the ground was pasture but the past 20 years I heard it was baled. I don't skimp on the bells and whisles when it comes to R.R. seed. I got my JD750 drill ready to go and we're getting some moisture so I'm anxious for spring to get here.
Spend On Inoculants First
To give nitrogen to your harvest, the principal cash you ought to spend ought to be for a shelled nut inoculant. In a few regions, an inoculant is required each year due to hot, dry conditions. Then again, waterlogged soils may likewise need feasible rhizobia. Whatever the conditions, giving the microscopic organisms required by the yield keeping in mind the end goal to settle nitrogen through applying an inoculant is significantly more practical than providing nitrogen through manure applications. Inquire about has demonstrated that attempting to make up for lost time nitrogen administration through manure applications has as of now cost you significant yields.
Locate That Proper Place
Situation of the inoculant is a standout amongst the most imperative focuses. Guarantee that the Inoculant is set in the wrinkle with the seed. The stream fly, not a fan spout or any sort of splash spout, for in-wrinkle fluid application or the drop tube for granular application must place the inoculant straightforwardly in the wrinkle where the seed is put. You would prefer not to shoot at the wrinkle from 10 to 12 inches away, particularly from the tip of a drop tube for granular inoculant.
All through planting, check spouts and tubes to ensure they are neither stopped nor shooting off to the side. Grower can be furnished with sensors that will caution the driver to a stopped tube.
At long last, guarantee that the wrinkle is secured by soil legitimately. Infrequently the grower doesn't drag enough soil back over the seed where the wrinkle opener is found. Planting at higher rates may aggravate this. Ensure the seed is secured. In the event that you plan to inundate and are depending on the soil mass of the wrinkle to crumple over the seed, this is not adequate on the grounds that the seed and microbes may dry out before the water system framework comes around.
Take after Label Instructions
Inoculants are live microscopic organisms and require extraordinary care. To augment the viability of rhizobia-containing inoculants, take after the prescribed taking care of, capacity and application bearings for every inoculant item. Apply just an inoculant item particular to peanuts. Abstain from putting away outside or unprotected from the components for long stretches. Keep the item from solidifying. Maintain a strategic distance from introduction to fumigants amid capacity and utilize. Know the similarity with fungicide and bug spray items to be connected. Utilize and blend inoculants just with non-chlorinated water. Routinely check alignment of utilization gear.
Scout For Nodulation
Utilize a scoop and burrow, don't pull, no less than 10 plants among two or three columns from four unique destinations in the field around a month and a half subsequent to planting. Search for proof of nodulation improvement on the tap root, which is immediate confirmation of inoculant utilize.
Cut open a couple of knobs and search for a pink to red inside, which is proof of nitrogen obsession. Knobs that are white or a light shade of green might not have begun settling nitrogen.
Rehash the nodulation evaluation about mid-August to perceive what top nodulation may have happened. Once more, search for nodulation on the taproot. You may likewise see a great deal of knobs on the parallel roots. These knobs are likely from local or foundation rhizobia microscopic organisms, which might possibly add to nitrogen obsession. Nodulation of the taproot is a great deal more inclined to settle the coveted nitrogen for your shelled nut trim.
Including nitrogen manure at planting or in a mid-season application will reduce nodulation, particularly if connected early. In the event that mid-season nitrogen is connected, defer it for a month and a half or sufficiently long that nodulation has in any event begun. Consider deferring preparation until a knob evaluation can be led, which may empower you to lessen mid-season nitrogen compost applications.