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Advisor

Clunking sound in 1466

When the throttle is at least 1/4 or more open and I push the clutch, a second later as the tractor decelerates, there is a distinct clunking sound or clang coming from under the tractor.  It is not the engine.  It is a one shot clang not on going.  It has been going on for a year or so but getting a little worse.   Anyone have an idea what is going on?

Wind

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8 Replies
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Senior Advisor

Re: Clunking sound in 1466

Could be the throw out bearing. Or maybe a bad spring in the pressure plate. Take the plate off below the clutch and have a look see.

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Veteran Advisor

Re: Clunking sound in 1466

I am about 95% sure it is the TA. Check to see if it does it with the TA both forward and back. Check to see if it does it if you let the tractor roll to a stop, and if it acts differently if you use the brakes to stop abruptly. A good TA mechanic should be able to give you an idea what is wrong. It could be something as simple as an adjustment, or as severe as the sprig going bad.
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Advisor

Re: Clunking sound in 1466

It does make the sound with the TA both ways.  Acts the same if the brakes are used to stop abruptly.  I very seldom use the TA and it was replaced about 2,000hrs ago.  I now have 5,000hrs on.  It has been a real work horse and I just can't seem to " let her go" and trade up.

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Veteran Advisor

Re: Clunking sound in 1466

Does it do it, in Neutral, as well?

 

If not, can you put the 1-2-3-4 gear lever in between 2 & 3, so it acts as a neutral, but have the range transmission in high, and see if it will still clunk while standing still.

 

If it isn't too bad, I'd almost guess, it just needs an adjustment.   There are two main adjustments on these tractors.

First, attatched to the clutch linkage, is a little rod, that goes to a 'flipper' on the TA valve body.  This 'flipper' should pull a plunger out of the valve body about 3/8 of an inch, with the clutch pedal pressed fully down.  I know that 3/8 is the clearance for a 1066, and am assuming a 1466 should be about the same.  The easiest way to check, is to have someone press the clutch all the way down, and see if you can just slip the end of a 3/8 inch drive socket extension behind the flipper, where the plunger comes out of the valve body.  If it is not 3/8 inch, I'd call to verify the clearance before I'd change it, just to be safe.  However, if it is way off, it can cause a clunk.

Another possible source of the clunk, would be the TA brake being too loose.  This is the lever that comes off the clutch linkage, that goes into the side of the tranny housing, near the bottom.  When the brake wears down, or the linkage gets too much slop in it, the brake does not work, and it allows the TA basket to keep spinning long after the clutch is held down, and it sometimes stops with a clunk, especailly if there is a little wear in it.
  You want it tight enough, to slow the TA basket so it doesn't grind much, going into gear, but not so tight, that it won't 'let go' by lifting the clutch pedal up off the floor a couple inches.  Usually, it is the linkage itself that gets worn out before the brake pad.

 

That is about all you can check out yourself, without things like pressure guages and such.  Hopefully, it is just something a little out of adjustment due to linkage wear.  If not, you may want to get the line pressure checked, because if there isn't enough hydraulic pressure getting to it, things can wear out fairly fast.

Lastly, if the pressures are good, and the linkages are in spec, it might just be the sprag wearing out.  Ond of the main causes of this, is using the TA to de-accelerate.  My dad used to do that a lot, as he was approaching a driveway or coming into the yard, he would pull the TA back, to help slow things down.  The TA in those tractors is not designed to do that.  They are designed to help pull you through a tough spot in the field, not to help slow the tractor down.   In Dad's mind, he was saving wear and tear on the brakes.  In reality, he was beating up the sprag in the TA.  
Brakes pads can be replaced, in about an hour, yourself, in the middle of your yard, with only 2 wrehcnes for about $200

The TA requires the tractor to be split in half, and will run $2000+

If you are pulling the TA back, to help slow the tractor down, you will be doing yourself a favor, to use the brakes instead.

My brother learned this in Tech School.   He has a 986, with well over 9,000 hours, and the TA has never been touched.  He only does two things differently than most guys who replace the TAs fairly regularly.

1) he does not pull the TA back, to slow the tractor.

2) he changes the hydraulic filter, every time he changes the engine oil.

 

In fact, since we started doing those two things, we have not replaced a TA in anything, and we run a 656, 685, 766, 986, and 1066.  The last TA job we had done, was on Dad's 766, about 20 years ago.

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Senior Contributor

TA

I would go through that TA, I had the same thing on a 1066. Still have the tractor, dad bought it new, I bought it from him, man what a workhouse it has been.

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Veteran Advisor

Re: TA

Also,if the TA is gone, you can upgrade it to a unit with a lifetime warranty, for not all that much more total cost.
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Advisor

Re: TA

Thanks to all.  I have her parked in an unheated shed for now so I'll do some tax preparation, travel a little and deal with the problem later.  

Wind

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Senior Contributor

Re: Clunking sound in 1466

I have heard that before about not pulling the TA back to slow the tractor down.  We use to use our 656 to cultivate with I use to pull it back when I would turn around on the ends,  We had the TA out of our 656 once.   It had little springs in there somewhere can't remember where they are for sure now, I was 13 at the time.  Anyway no one told us that those springs will fly out.  So I was crawling over the shop floor looking for springs.  I found every one of them!!   

 

The TA is an OK system. But it can be a High maintenance kind of deal.   We had a 966 we bought used never did have to miss with the TA yet.  Its had one TA in it and there is 7800 hrs on the tractor.   If we keep using it much longer I imagine it'll need to be replaced. 

 

 

Read the last post:  we had to replace the clutch in our 966 the center of the clutch plate broke out of the rest of the plate.   I was unrolling hay with it and all the sudden the tractor stopped going.  (panic set in about that  time)  The splines where turning but the plate wasn't.  On our 966 there is a plate on the bottom of the clutch housing when we took it off we had pressure plate springs broke in ours. 

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