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BuzBrandes
Member

Help selecting Martin (or other) closing wheels

I run a JD 7000 6row and am looking at new closing wheels.  I have my eye on the Martins but am open to other suggestions.  I have done 10% no till and 90% conventional till in the past. I"m looking for more success at closing the seed trench when no-tilling.  I have noticed poor results in the past when using the standard closing wheels and slightly moist soil.

A few questions...

 

1.  Go with Martin spaded closing wheels or is there somethiing better?

 

2. Since I will likely still do conventional till, do I want one new closing wheel or 2?

 

3.  My current closing wheels mount to the closing arm with a roll pin and closing wheel pressure is adjusted using a wrench.  Any benefit to upgrading to new closing arm where the wheels mount with a nut and bolt?  

 

4.  How often do you adjust the closing wheel pressure using spaded closing wheels?   Is this just something that is set light and left alone with little need to change the pressure once it is set?

 

Thanks for any help.

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4 Replies
Jim Meade / Iowa City
Senior Contributor

Re: Help selecting Martin (or other) closing wheels

I have Martin closing wheels on my White 6100 and like them, but I know nothing about a John Deere 7000.  Call David Moeller at Moeller Ag and ask him.

 

http://www.moelleragservice.com/

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matt hagny
Contributor

Re: Help selecting Martin (or other) closing wheels

The discussion & diagrams on our web page (scroll down) might help you understand the different designs and actions of spoked closing wheels (in no-till):

 

http://www.exapta.com/products/thompson.html

 

Updating to the closing brackets that hold the wheels with bolts gives you more options for wheels, toe-out wedges, etc.

 

It is quite a challenge to come up with a system that works in all conditions, especially when you throw tilled seedbeds into the equation.  Lots of things work in tillage that don't in no-till, and vice versa.

 

Hope this helps,

 

 

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Pat in CMO
Contributor

Re: Help selecting Martin (or other) closing wheels

Updating closing wheel brackets will also allow for easier closing wheel down pressure adjustments. The 7000 uses a bolt to adjust spring pressure where the updated brackets use a lever, making adjustments quicker and easier.  Patrick

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jimatdawn
Visitor

Re: Help selecting Martin (or other) closing wheels

The last JD 7000 planter was manufactured about 1986, or 24 years ago. Yours is probably about 30 years old. The closing wheel assembly on many of these is about worn out unless they have been reinforced.

 

I second Patrick's advice: replace the original 7000 tailpiece with a kit which will give you much tighter pivots, the ability to bolt on closing wheels (rather than the old style waterpump bearing) and very important is the ability to move a lever to adjust the closer spring pressure rather than to try to adjust a bolt which is usually seized up and you can't fins a wrench...

 

JD dealers sell an update kit  (they sell tailpieces with both the waterpump and bolt-on type closing brackets - buy the bolt-on) as well as Kinze dealers (the Kinze kit works on the 7000), Shoup, SI Distributing and others. Going bolt-on does mean you will need to replace all closing wheels but after 30 years it is time, imho.

 

Once you get the tail piece so there is almost no lateral play and have an easily adjustable downn force system THEN consider which closing wheels to purchase.  Many Deere dealers have "take-off" standard rubber tires they have removed from new planters coming in and may have some discounts on those. My suggestion in a combination worked and reduced tillage system is one standard  JD rubber + one of our Dawn Curvetine closing wheels. The Curvetine "chips-in" sidewall compaction caused by the nature of the vee opener. The Curvetine does not "spade" the soil up as a straight tooth wheel does. The broad curved end of each tine gives you seed to soil contact and gets the air out of the bottom of the seed slot.

 

I do not recommend using a drag chain, the Curvetine does NOT require a seed firmer. Some other systems on the market require both. In my opinion the reduced inner diameter gage wheels were originally designed as a part of the very different Case/IH closing system and work well there - but can and have some times caused problems when used in a standard JD/Kinze/White closing system and some soils/conditions. Seed firmers can also be a mixed bag - help in some soils/conditions and build up with mud and drag seed in others.  jmho.

 

Jim at Dawn

 

I do not reply to questions regarding other company's products however in this original post did say "or other".

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